Central Oregon Coast Press Trip: Day 2

22 06 2012

Day 2 started out with breakfast in the same spot I chose to end the previous evening; at the MIST Restaurant. Though this morning, I would be in the actual restaurant and avoid the lounge altogether. We were joined by Revelle Lewis, Sales Manager for Surftides Lincoln City. Revelle was a joy to talk to. She detailed the history of the hotel and the renovations done to the property. As good as breakfast conversation was, I struggled to avert my attention anywhere except on the Crab Cake Benedict and house-made sausage that I was squaring up on. I really liked this place. So much so, I already have plans to go back in September.

We bid adieu to Revelle and Surftides and headed for the Jennifer Sears Glass Art Studio. The original plan that morning was to go out to the beach after breakfast and go glass float hunting……Where by an incredible press tour-induced stroke of luck, we would happen upon glass floats. The weather that morning was less than agreeable so Lucy did what Lucy does, and arranged for us to go to an actual art studio and blow glass floats for ourselves. We were met at the studio by Sandy Pfaff, Executive Director of the Lincoln City Visitor & Convention Bureau, Katera Woodbridge, Interactive Marketing Manager for the same bureau, and Artist, Kelly Howard.

Back story: glass floats have been prized finds for beachcombers in the Northwest for quite sometime. Japanese and Korean fisherman once used handmade glass floats for their nets, occasionally the nets and or floats would break free and make their way across the Pacific Ocean and end up on our beaches. The practice of making glass fishing floats is now a rarity in Japan and Korea but every now and then, a real one shows up on the shores of Oregon. What’s less rare now are ornate, vibrantly hued, handmade glass floats created by local artists being spotted on the beach. It’s like the ultimate Easter egg hunt, and people take it seriously. On this day, I had the pleasure of blowing my own glass float. Well kind of. I was given a heavy amount of help and tutelage from the lovely and talented Kelly Howard. Since a greenhorn glass blower is more likely to produce a molten, mis-shapened blob or burn down the place, the amount of help given was necessary and appreciated. I got the finished product in the mail a couple of weeks ago and it rocks! I’m 98% sure it’s better than the one that Roy made.

We went from glass blowing to shopping. We visited the Tanger Outlets in Lincoln City. General Manager, Diane Kusz, gave us the layout of the place and a swag bag containing a discount book. We were off to enjoy an hour of independent shopping. If I recall correctly, we all benefited from this. I learned from my first press trip that you should really bring an additional piece of luggage to tote back items picked up along the way. I might not be the sharpest tool in the box, but I can learn a lesson. And having extra luggage, especially when they let you loose in an outlet mall, is a valuable one.

Next up was lunch at Fathoms Restaurant at the Inn at Spanish Head. Once again we were joined by Sandy and Katera. Roy Fact #2: If you’re a rookie travel writer on a trip with Roy Stevenson, expect to get hazed. Roy is insistent that you earn your stripes. Upon learning of my recently attained bachelor status, it became Roy’s mission in life to “hook me up”, as it were. He insisted that I sit next to, converse with, or propose marriage to any female within 20 years of my own age that didn’t have a ring on her finger. I typically don’t embarrass easy, but I’ll admit that Roy got me a few times. At lunch the incredibly patient Katera was Roy’s chosen Adam Target. Much to my pleasure, she took everything he said with a grain of salt and chopped him at the knees when necessary.

Lunch was fantastic by the way. The views from the restaurant where as good as any I’ve encountered on the coast during a meal and the Spanish Salad I had was remarkable. I once again tried to order “light”, but a salad with grilled chicken, almonds, green olives, piquillo peppers, Manchego cheese, croutons, and creamy piquillo pepper dressing ensured I ate every bite and dang near licked the plate. Oh well.

Then it was time for glass blowing. “Again?” you say. Yes, but this time instead of rookies fumbling around a studio, we were going to watch a true artist in action. Buzz Williams owns and operates Alder House III, and he was mesmerizing to watch. His glass blowing studio and residence sit next to each other in an otherworldly chunk of forest that might as well be straight out of a Tolkien novel. At the risk of getting too steamy for a blog post, Buzz coddles, maneuvers, and takes on molten glass like a skilled and caring lover. If it sounds odd, visit a glass blowing studio sometime. These places are chock full of double entendres. Allusions to lovemaking aside, this was a great stop. I never really paid attention to glass art before, but this day in Lincoln City has converted me into an appreciative fan of the art form.

After visiting with Buzz, we left to check in at the Salishan Spa and Golf Resort, our home for the evening. The grounds at the Salishan where as enchanting as the forest that Buzz Williams calls home. I would have to scope out the place later because we had only a few minutes to freshen up before leaving for the Beachcombers Haven. The Beachcombers Haven offers vacation rentals on a prime spot of Gleneden Beach. It was in one of these charming beach front units that we met the proprietor of Beachcombers, Alyce Thomson, and Owner Operator of the Flying Dutchman Winery, Dick Cutler. We were going to do a little wine tasting and chat about their respective businesses. For me, this was one of the highlights of the entire trip. Sure the wine was great and the beach view was stunning. But Alyce and Dick are world class. Alyce is a spitfire source of enigmatic energy with a quick wit and a sharp tongue. Dick is mellow, smooth, and has a glimmer in his eye that lead me to believe he’s seen and done more good living than I’ll ever sniff at, and there’s a whole lot more to come. I want to be Dick when I grow up. Combined, the two friends formed a chocolate and peanut butter-esque conversation team that was inviting, engaging, and infectious.

After much wine and chatter it was time for dinner. As an added bonus Alyce and Dick chose to join us. Dinner was at the Surfrider Restaurant and Lounge at the Surfrider Resort in Depoe Bay. Apparently the theme of the day was “Try to eat while nature’s splendor smacks you in the face”. The view from the Surfrider Restaurant was on par with the view from the Fathoms Restaurant, only now it was sunset…..and whales where swimming by…..and Allen gave me an assignment for Northwest Travel Magazine….and I’m eating scallops……and Dick was sitting next to me! Good gravy this day was cutting my way. I left dinner full and rosy cheeked. When we got back to Salishan, I decided to explore the grounds. Resorts like these are fun to just walk around in. Somehow my exploration lead to the Attic Lounge for a nightcap. The bar was amazing. So far the Central Oregon Coast is setting the bar really high in many aspects, not the least of which is lounge quality. The Attic was another super cozy, warm, uber-relaxing venue with top notch drinks. I was lucky enough to be joined by Lucy and Allen for a drink and then it was back to the room. Checkout the next morning was 8:15 am.





Portland Family Outdoors: Johnston Ridge Observatory

19 06 2012

If you live in Portland and haven’t made it to the north side of Mt St Helens yet, shame on you. Take a day out of summer and get up to the Johnston Ridge Observatory. In the latest Portland Family Outdoors column I explore trails in the blast zone; where life has returned at a rate almost nobody thought possible. Read about it here. (Click on photo for larger view).





Picture of the Week: Hiking at Cape Perpetua

18 06 2012

This week’s photo is from the Discovery Loop Trail at Cape Perpetua. I took a short but very memorable hike there while on last month’s Central Oregon Coast Press Trip.





Picture of the Week: The Oneonta Gorge

11 06 2012

The elegant and photogenic Lower Oneonta Falls waits at the end of the .6 mile creek walk through the Oneonta Gorge.





Central Oregon Coast Press Trip: Day 1

6 06 2012

Can you imagine the luck? Just a couple months after the North Oregon Coast Press Trip finished and my perma-smile began to dissipate, I had the honor of being invited back for the Central Oregon Coast trip. And it was a reunion of sorts. Once again Lucy Gibson, Public Relations Director for the Central Oregon Coast Association, was riding shotgun. Guide, Tracie Driver, from NorthWest EcoExcursions was back behind the wheel of the tour van. And I was very pleased to see Editor of Northwest Travel Magazine / Press Trip Poobah, Allen Cox, back as well. It was to be a much smaller group this time around though. In addition to Allen and me, the only other writer along for the journey was travel writer extraordinaire, Roy Stevenson. I had never had the privilege of making Roy’s acquaintance before, but did he ever announce his presence with authority. And it was far from a bad thing. Roy is a Kiwi with a larger-than-life personality and only one speed; a speed that manages to kick into overdrive with the addition of sugar and caffeine. Roy is capable of leading even the most pious individual down a path of press tour induced, middle-aged skullduggery. I love him. The “Code of the Road” prevents me from divulging too much, but I can assure you that nothing transpired that Mrs. Stevenson wouldn’t approve of, save for the sugar and caffeine intake.

Tracie, Allen, Roy, and I all met at the Shilo Inns Portland Airport Suites Hotel and headed south. We met Lucy in Depoe Bay at the Chamber of Commerce Visitor’s Center. We visited briefly with a pair of delightful volunteers, Fred & Betty Robison, before crossing the street for lunch. Roy Fact #1: Don’t get him started on World War 2. Roy writes about all sorts of non-travel related topics, and WW2 is one of them. When he found out that Fred was in the war, he was all over it.

We eventually got to the Spouting Horn Restaurant for lunch. The view of Depoe Bay was fantastic, as was my BLT and cup of chowder. Tracie and I frequently end up seated next to each other for meals. After just now working off the additional chin I garnered from the last trip, Tracie and I agreed to try and order “lighter” meals whenever possible this trip. The half sandwich and cup of soup was a great start. We’ll see how it goes.

After lunch we walked across the street to the Whale Watching Center. We actually saw whales! The center is under renovation, but there are still a number of great exhibits to peruse. Plus there are binoculars and a great vantage for spotting whales.

We watched whales for about a half an hour and then something odd happened. We had free time. On the last trip, our itinerary was packed to the gills. I don’t recall any complaints, however. It’s really hard to die from an overdose of awesome. That being said, I would typically pass out the second my head hit the pillow. On this day though, we were given an hour to just stroll about and visit the wonderful shops of Depoe Bay. It was great. I bought an ice cream cone and took a bunch of pictures.

Done with shopping, we headed for the stylishly refurbished Surftides Lincoln City, our lodging for the evening. Man was this place fantastic. And not just because of the bottles of wine and meat and cheese tray they had waiting for me in my room. They have outside fire pits, fresh baked cookies in the lobby, super comfy beds, and a killer bar and lounge attached to the restaurant, MIST. I had enough time to freshen up and drink some wine before making my way back down to the van to leave for dinner.

Dinner was at the Chinook Winds Casino Resort, in the Rogue River Steakehouse, and it was impressive. We where met by Teresa Simmons, Public Relations Assistant Manager for the Casino, who was excellent company. She detailed the role that the Casino plays in the community, as well as some of the finer points of the Resort itself. We were treated to several delicious appetizers and then I received one of the best tasting, best plated orders of scallops that have ever been placed in front of my face.

After dinner we headed back to the Surftides where I explored the grounds and went to take pictures of the bar. It’s important to cover all angles when you visit these places. Just don’t ask me for pictures of very many exercise rooms. All kidding aside though, the bar was cozy, and had a stunning view. I hung out for a drink or three, went back to the room, and called it a night. Breakfast was scheduled for 8:30 am.





Portland Family Outdoors: Saddle Mountain

5 06 2012

To the best of my knowledge there’s only one spot in Oregon where you can see the Pacific Ocean, and the Cascade peaks of Rainier, St. Helens, Adams, and Hood. That’s from the top of Saddle Mountain. Add in the expansive meadows of wildflowers that are draped across the mountain right now and you’ve got a big reason to get out of Portland this weekend. Read about it in this week’s Portland Family Outdoors, here.





Picture of the Week: Yachats, Oregon

4 06 2012

Exploring the eerie early morning beauty of the coast in Yachats, Oregon. Taken from the historic 804 Trail that runs beside the Overleaf Lodge.





The Collage Beer Dinner

30 05 2012

A few weeks ago I was lucky enough to be the only writer covering the Collage Beer Dinner at the Wildwood restaurant here in Portland. It was kind of a last minute invitation, so I didn’t know much about the event or what to expect going into it. Once I arrived, however, it didn’t take long for me to realize that the magnitude of my luck was perhaps Richter scale-worthy.

The Collage Beer Dinner as it turns out, was a masterful collaboration of food and beer. The culinary teaming of Wildwood Chef, Paul Kasten, and Deschutes Executive Chef, Jeff Usinowicz, produced five food courses. While the Deschutes Brewery and the Hair of the Dog Brewing Company offered up beer pairings for each course that were produced specifically for two Collage Beer Dinners. One in Bend and the one I attended in Portland. A portion of the proceeds from each dinner would be going to charitable organizations in each city.

So I’m supposed to sample beer, some of which would not be made available anywhere else, paired with food collaboratively born in one of the premier kitchens in Portland? You got it. The attendees where an eclectic bunch: beer snobs, foodies, a beer and food loving travel writer, and employees from both Deschutes and Hair of the Dog. There were also a number of beer dignitaries in attendance, including Hair of the Dog owner, Alan Sprints. I wound up seated at one of the “big kid” tables next to the likes of Deschutes Brewery owner, Gary Fish, his lovely wife Carol, and Deschutes Brewmaster, Cam O’Connor. Better keep the swearing to a minimum.

The dinner started with Mizuna Gardens baby greens. Presented with spring onions, Dissident dried cherries, truffle tremor, late harvest sauvignon blanc vinaigrette, and duck confit. The salad was paired with The Dissident from Deschutes; 100% aged in a French pinot barrel from Domaine Drouhin. Yep, that just happened. The salad and beer where respectively magnificent, but their pairing set the tone for the evening.

The next course was an oak plank wild salmon. The dish included green garlic gnocchi, hedgehog mushrooms, and brown butter, paired with The Stoic from Deschutes. What a pairing this was. The salmon and hedgehog mushrooms where brought to life by The Stoic; 100% aged in a rye whiskey barrel from Heaven Hill. The salmon was perfectly cooked and the flavor of the mushrooms seemed to ruminate with the assistance of the Belgian-style Quad.

Next, we moved into Hair of the Dog territory. Course three was a seared pork belly confit served with a bourbon ribollita, and rainbow chard. Paired with Hair of the Dog’s Fred, 100% aged in a Midwest bourbon barrel from Francois Freres. I don’t mind telling you that I’m generally not the biggest pork belly fan, but I chewed the daylights out of this dish. The texture and the flavor of the meat where very much on point and the ribollita was expertly touched off by the bourbon flavor finish of the Fred.

We were then served cocoa braised oxtail atop a morel mushroom flan with crispy asparagus. The dish was paired with Hair of the Dog’s Adam; 100% aged in a new Oregon barrel from Francois Freres. This dish was a superbly choreographed dance between taste and texture. It didn’t hurt things that Adam is one of my favorite beers, and it has very little to do with the name.

Arguably saving the best for last in all aspects, the final course of the evening was a tandoor roasted lamb chop. Accompanied by brewery cured lamb bacon and new potato hash, sautéed pea vines, roasted shallot glace, and black truffle oil. It was paired with the event’s namesake beer, Collage. A thoughtful and careful combination of The Dissident, The Stoic, Fred, and Adam, the Collage was complex and damn near transcendent. I know it’s just beer, but if you really love and appreciate beer, then you understand. Paired with what might have been the best food offering of the evening, the word transcendent seems all the more befitting.

Dessert was a pistachio cake dreamed up by Pastry Chef, Jill Ramseier. It was comprised of white chocolate-whiskey mouse, sweet cherry meringue, and tart rhubarb coulis. That scrumtious piece of awesome was a hell of a way to finish off the evening, or so I thought.

As luck would have it, Gary Fish has known Alan Sprints for a long time. In fact, he still owned a case of Fred #1 that he purchased when the beer made its debut some 14 years ago. Gary had been saving that beer for a special occasion, and this night was it. When Gary produced the case of Fred #1 and began pouring it for the group of adoring beer fans, emotions erupted. Some people cheered out loud, others sat in stunned silence, and still others where literally moved to tears. Again, I know it’s just beer, but…..

It was a special event, and a very special evening. In true Collage spirit, everything we ate, drank, and experienced, was greater than the sum of its parts.





Picture of the Week: The Sea Lion Caves

28 05 2012

The world’s largest sea cave is located near the town of Florence along the Oregon coast. It is known as the Sea Lion Caves, and with very good reason.





Happy Hour: Sidecar 11

27 05 2012

If you’re not paying close attention, it’s easy to walk right past one of the best bars in North Portland. The space occupied by Sidecar 11 is no wider than the entrance to a prohibition-era speakeasy. Like their drinks, however, the space is deep, sophisticated, and well thought out.

I met Sidecar 11 owner, John Cooper, and bartender, Erin, a couple of weeks ago for drinks and a set of appetizers. Admittedly, I had been to Sidecar 11 several times before this visit. Not just because their drinks are top notch, but also because their happy hour food menu is delicious and inexpensive. What I hadn’t realized prior to this visit though, was the fact that John doesn’t have a kitchen. He has a refrigerator, a small area for dry goods, and a convection oven down at the far end of the bar. But instead of viewing this as a hindrance, John saw the unconventional setup as an open invitation to get creative. And while he did his thing at one end of the bar, Erin was doing hers at the other.

The first drink that Erin produced was the Mississippi Sidecar. This interpretation of the old standard contains brandy, orange liqueur, and lemon, served up with a sugar rim. I should mention that Erin created the drink menu at Sidecar 11. A fact that might explain why she produced each of my drinks with the care and attention to detail that a mother might lavish upon her children on the first day of school. Think I’m exaggerating? Order any of her original menu drinks and tell me I’m wrong. It was also around this time that John brought out the first appetizer, a Tapenade Plate that features basil pesto, roasted red pepper, garlic and olive tapenade, and crostini. This was delicious as expected, but the next plate John presented was outstanding.

Look at that! That right there is a combination of the Garlic Steak Skewers and the Marinated Chicken Skewers. The steak skewers are baked medium with green bell pepper and served with spicy peanut sauce & green onions. The chicken skewers are baked with red bell pepper and served with sweet chili dressing & black sesame seeds. Incredibly well cooked, flavored, and presented, John nailed it with that skewer plate.

Next up drink-wise was the 20 Fountains. Named for Portland’s famed Benson Bubblers, this concoction has Bulleit Rye, Carpano Antica, Peychaud’s Bitters, and Regan’s #6 Orange Bitters. Classy, right? Simon Benson may have been a teetotaler, but I bet he would have stolen a sip or two of this fine beverage when no one was looking.

John then decided he wanted me to love him forever. He gave me a new potential menu item he had been working on, which was more or less the Sidecar 11 version of a Chile Relleno. A roasted Anaheim chili stuffed with prosciutto, mozzarella, cheddar, provolone, bread crumbs, and caramelized onion. Roasted Anaheim chilies are somewhere in the top 5 of my favorite things on this planet. Needless to say this offering made me giddy as a school girl.

Not to be outdone, Erin whipped up two cold weather drinks that were originally created by some of John’s old bartender friends. The Nana’s Nip, which has ginger juice, lemon juice, Laird’s Apple Jack, and hot water, was sweet and flavorful. And the last drink of the evening, the Oh Fidel, You Cad!, was as delicious and gut-warming as its name is creative and giggle-worthy. Comprised of a healthy dose of rum, Falernum, lemon juice, and hot water, the Oh Fidel was the perfect capper for the evening.

Sidecar 11 was a great way to finish off the “research” I’m doing for the upcoming Happy Hour piece in NorthWest Travel Magazine. I want to thank John and Erin for being fantastic hosts. It was a real pleasure to get a thorough sampling of what was already one of my favorite bars. I win!